Even the most die-hard urbanite comes to crave a bit of bucolic respite every now and again. Nothing quite like the curative qualities of fresh air, rolling green landscapes, and the smell of animal manure. Luckily for Berliners, this city–ever full of surprises–hides a quaint, well-preserved historic village within its borders. First founded in 1230 and only incorporated into the city of Berlin in 1920, Lübars is a pastoral little spot that makes an easy day trip for getting away from the city without getting away from the city.
Tucked into the northern edge of Reinickendorf, just before the border of Brandenburg, the village of Lübars has based its economy in horses for centuries, and even today, the area is still dominated by numerous stables, pastures, and show jumping courses. Visitors are welcome to hop on and go for a gallop in the surrounding countryside.
If you’d rather say neigh to mounting a hairy, strange beast, there are numerous marked trails for exploring the area by foot, too. Stop by the farm stand on the main village square to pick up some fresh vegetables, herbs, and eggs laid by the chickens clucking around the corner.
One of the most crucial factors that can make or break a good Ausflug, in my opinion, is the culinary stop along the way for the ever-important Kaffee-und-Kuchen hour. And for that, Lübars earns top marks with its lovely, old Alter Dorfkrug. The interior is all dark wood, crisp white tablecloths, antique framed photos, and an atmospheric 1920s soundtrack, while out back is a shady Biergarten that hosts live jazz on summer Sundays.
The menu specializes in good old home-style Hausmannskost, and what came out of the kitchen on our visit showed a clear sense of culinary pride. The hefty portion of liver “Berliner Art” was rich and flavourful and came on a cloud of sumptuous mashed potatoes. The cake slices were equally hefty, the drink menu exhaustive, the service prompt and friendly, the pricing reasonable, the terrace seating traumhaft.
Lübars: From U6 Alt-Tegel, take Bus 222 to its last stop, Alt-Lübars, or go by bike.