Karl-Marx-Allee 99 // Berlin, nostalgia, and a bygone Briefmarkenhandel

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Like everyone, I have my vices. These include: Haribo candy; buying more lip balm than I could ever use; a mild Google-stalking habit; nostalgia. The word "nostalgia" was coined by a Swiss medical student in 1688. Back then, it was considered a disease, to be treated with leeches, opium, and bracing Alpine air. In her 2007 ...

Subterranean Subterfuge // Berlin Wall escape tunnels from Treptow to Neukölln

Curiosity is a highly underrated virtue. Especially in a city like Berlin, where curiosity--along with an observant eye--is frequently rewarded by an unending array of things to discover. Amazing things, beautiful things, tragic things--or oftentimes, a combination of all three. The memorial plaque outside Heidelberger Str. 35. On a recent meandering walk through one of my ...

Hier Wohnte // Neukölln’s newest Stolpersteine Holocaust memorials

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If you live in Berlin and haven't yet noticed the Stolpersteine, you haven't been paying attention. These little brass-covered cobblestones--or stumbling blocks, as the project name roughly translates to--are installed into the sidewalk in front of the last homes of Holocaust victims, each stone engraved with one individual's name and basic details about their fate. While ...