Riding the Old-Time Rails // Charming retro trams in Köpenicker Forest

Some things are so self-evident, they don’t require justification. For example, sunny weather is good. Autumn is nicer than winter. And old-fashioned trams with wood-trimmed windows and brass bells that ding are simply more fun to ride than modern ones. For example, the very cute, very cool old-school tram line still running at the edge […]

On the Bright Side // A surprise palace getaway in Potsdam

To tell the truth, Berlin and I have been going through a rough patch as of late. It’s not that I’ve fallen completely out of love with the city, but any affection is currently smothered under a deep heap of winter-induced misery. Berlin is really, really hard to love in the winter. As if the […]

Mauerweg // Cycling the former Berlin Wall

Like no other city I’ve known, Berlin knows how to cultivate beauty from out of desolation. There’s a turnoff to a pretty, tree-lined bike path that I pass often on the way to and from my Treptow Schrebergarten. (More about that here.) I’d known that the path ran the length of the former Berlin Wall, […]

Florida Eiscafé // Berlin’s oldest ice cream shop

Like so many things in Berlin, the humble ice cream shop has undergone something of a transformation in recent years, a kind of trendy yuppie-fication, if you will. Think: minimalist design interiors, fancy espresso machines, and ingredients like tonka bean, gorgonzola cheese*, and artisanal cocoa sourced from some far-flung corner of the Caribbean. But for […]